Everything I wish someone had told me before I stepped off that plane in the Canary Islands.
Right, let me start with a confession. My first trip to Tenerife was… well, let’s just say it wasn’t the Instagram-perfect holiday I’d imagined. I made pretty much every rookie mistake in the book, from packing completely wrong to choosing the worst possible base for exploring the island.
But here’s the thing about travel disasters: they make the best stories later, and more importantly, they teach you exactly what NOT to do next time. So grab a cuppa, and let me save you from the same face-palm moments I had during my Tenerife debut.
The Weather Isn’t What You Think It Is
This might sound mad, but Tenerife has about seven different climates depending on where you are. I kid you not. I packed nothing but shorts and flip-flops because, you know, it’s the Canary Islands, right? Eternal sunshine and all that.
Wrong. So very wrong.
The north of the island can be cloudy and cool, especially around Puerto de la Cruz. The south is your classic beach weather paradise. And if you’re planning to visit Mount Teide? Pack a proper jacket because it gets properly cold up there. We’re talking near freezing temperatures at the summit, even in summer.
What to pack for Tenerife weather:
- Layers, layers, layers
- A light waterproof jacket
- Comfortable walking shoes (not just sandals)
- Warm clothes if you’re visiting Teide National Park
- Sun cream (factor 50, trust me on this)
The locals have a saying: “In Tenerife, you can experience all four seasons in one day.” They’re not exaggerating.
Location, Location, Location: Where to Stay Matters More Than You Think
Here’s where I really messed up. I booked a lovely hotel in Puerto de la Cruz because it looked charming in the photos. And it was charming, don’t get me wrong. But I spent half my holiday sitting in traffic trying to get to the beaches and attractions in the south.
Tenerife might look small on the map, but getting around takes longer than you’d expect. The roads are winding, mountainous, and often packed with tourists doing exactly what I was doing: driving from one end of the island to the other.
Choose your base wisely:
- South (Playa de las Américas, Los Cristianos): Best for beaches, nightlife, and guaranteed sunshine
- North (Puerto de la Cruz): More authentic, cooler climate, great for culture vultures
- West Coast (Los Gigantes): Stunning cliffs, quieter, perfect for couples
- Central: Only if you’re planning to spend most of your time hiking
Think about what you actually want to do, then pick accommodation nearby. Your future self will thank you when you’re not spending two hours a day in a rental car.
The Rental Car Reality Check
Speaking of rental cars, let me give you the heads up I wish I’d had. Yes, you probably need one if you want to explore properly. But Tenerife driving is… an experience.
The roads are narrow, steep, and full of hairpin bends. GPS sometimes sends you down roads that are barely wide enough for a bicycle, let alone a car. And parking? Good luck with that in the popular areas during peak season.
Driving tips for Tenerife:
- Book the smallest car you can manage with
- Download offline maps (mobile signal can be patchy in the mountains)
- Allow double the time Google Maps suggests
- Learn to reverse park on steep hills (you’ll need it)
- Consider staying put some days instead of constantly driving
Alternatively, the bus system is actually pretty decent, especially between major towns. It’s slower, but you can relax and enjoy the scenery instead of white-knuckling it around mountain bends.
The Food Scene: Beyond Tourist Traps
I’ll be honest, I ate some absolutely dreadful meals during my first visit. Overpriced, underwhelming tourist menu food that bore no resemblance to actual Canarian cuisine. It wasn’t until a local pointed me towards a tiny family-run restaurant that I discovered what I’d been missing.
Real Canarian food is incredible. We’re talking about papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauce that’ll change your life, fresh fish that was swimming that morning, and gofio (a local grain) that appears in everything from bread to ice cream.
How to eat well in Tenerife:
- Avoid restaurants with photos of food outside
- Look for places full of locals (always a good sign)
- Try the menu del día for authentic, affordable meals
- Don’t miss the local markets for fresh produce
- Ask your accommodation for restaurant recommendations
The Michelin Guide actually features several Tenerife restaurants now, which shows just how much the food scene has evolved.
Beach Expectations vs Reality
Here’s something nobody tells you: not all Tenerife beaches are created equal. I rocked up to Playa de las Teresitas expecting Caribbean-style white sand and crystal-clear water. What I found was… well, it was lovely, but it’s artificial sand imported from the Sahara, and the water was a bit murky.
The volcanic nature of the island means many beaches have black sand, which looks dramatic but gets absolutely scorching hot. I learned this the hard way when I tried to run across Playa Jardín barefoot. Spoiler alert: I didn’t make it.
Beach reality check:
- Black sand beaches are stunning but bring shoes
- The best beaches get crowded early (arrive before 10am)
- Some beaches have strong currents, always check the flags
- Beach bars are expensive, bring your own drinks and snacks
- The north coast beaches are often too rough for swimming
The Teide Experience: Don’t Wing It
Mount Teide is absolutely unmissable. It’s Spain’s highest peak, the views are otherworldly, and the cable car ride is genuinely thrilling. But here’s what I wish I’d known: you need to book ahead. Way ahead.
I turned up thinking I could just buy a ticket on the day. The cable car was fully booked for the next three days. Even worse, if you want to hike to the actual summit, you need a special permit that can take weeks to obtain.
Teide planning essentials:
- Book cable car tickets online in advance
- Apply for summit permits early if you want to hike to the top
- Go early morning or late afternoon for the best light
- Bring warm clothes (it’s cold up there)
- Allow a full day for the experience
The sunset from Teide is supposed to be spectacular, though I wouldn’t know because I was stuck at the bottom looking up at the cable car I couldn’t get on.
Money Matters: The Euro Reality
This might seem obvious, but Tenerife uses euros, and everything costs more than you expect. Tourist areas are particularly pricey, and I burned through my budget faster than I’d planned.
ATMs are everywhere, but your bank will probably charge you for withdrawals. Many places accept cards, but smaller restaurants and markets often prefer cash.
Budget tips:
- Notify your bank before travelling
- Get a travel-friendly debit card to avoid fees
- Budget more than you think you’ll need
- Shop at local supermarkets instead of hotel shops
- Happy hour drinks are your friend
Language: A Little Goes a Long Way
Most people in tourist areas speak English, but learning a few Spanish phrases will transform your experience. Locals genuinely appreciate the effort, and you’ll get better service, better recommendations, and often better prices.
I managed with “por favor,” “gracias,” and pointing for most of my trip, but I missed out on so many conversations and connections because of the language barrier.
Frequently Asked Questions
When’s the best time to visit Tenerife?
Honestly? Any time. The weather’s decent year-round, but spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer the best balance of good weather and fewer crowds.
How many days do you need in Tenerife?
A week minimum if you want to see the highlights without rushing. Two weeks if you want to properly explore and relax.
Is Tenerife expensive?
It’s pricier than mainland Spain but cheaper than most UK destinations. Budget around £50-80 per day for food, drinks, and activities.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Not essential in tourist areas, but it helps enormously. Download a translation app at minimum.
What’s the one thing you absolutely can’t miss?
Mount Teide, without question. It’s like being on another planet.
The Bottom Line
Look, Tenerife is an incredible destination, even if you make the same mistakes I did. The island has this amazing ability to surprise you around every corner, whether it’s a hidden beach, a family-run restaurant serving the best fish you’ve ever tasted, or a viewpoint that makes you forget all about the traffic jam you sat in to get there.
The key is managing your expectations and doing a bit of homework before you go. Don’t try to see everything in one trip. Pick a base that makes sense for what you want to do. Book the important stuff in advance. And for the love of all that’s holy, pack some warm clothes.
Most importantly, be prepared to fall in love with the place despite its quirks. I certainly did, which is why I’ve been back four times since that disastrous first visit. Each trip gets better because I know what I’m doing now.
Safe travels, and don’t forget to try the mojo sauce. You’ll thank me later.
